Too much sharpening can make the film look too much like video.Ĥ. Also, the limitedSharpenFasterįunction, while excellent for video, is uncessarily slow, and isn't really needed for this low With grainy film stock, this sometimes created objectionable grain. The original script did sharpening in at least four places. Substantially improves the dirt removal capabilities of this script. Added RemoveDirt function prior to Degrain in order to eliminate large dust spots. With the equivalent function using the newer and faster MVTools2.Ģ. Replaced the MVDegrainMulti function, which was part of the original MVTools Modified by John Meyer, September 13, 2017ġ. X2=2 #X2 is a special parameter for reducing the autolevels effect on the blacksĭenoising, resizing, stabilising, sharpening, auto-levels and auto-white balance. X=4 #X is a special parameter for reducing the autolevels effect on the whites #LSF_sharp_ness=120 LSF_radi_us=2 LSF_sub=1.5 #second sharpening parameters (LimitedSharpenFaster) sub=subsampling #PRE_sharp_ness= 120 PRE_radi_us= 3 #presharpening (UnsharpMask) just after first denoising LSF_sharp_ness=160 LSF_radi_us=2 LSF_sub=1.5 #second sharpening parameters (LimitedSharpenFaster) sub=subsampling
PRE_sharp_ness= 120 PRE_radi_us= 3 #presharpening (UnsharpMask) just after first denoising #dirt_strength=13 #sets amount of dirt removal (big spots) MaxstabH=20 #maximum values for the stabiliser (in pixels) 20 is a good start valueĮst_left=40 est_top=40 est_right=40 est_bottom=40 est_cont=1.6 #crop and contast values for special Estimate clipĭenoising_strength=600 #denoising level of first denoiser: MVDegrain()īlock_over= 8 #block overlapping of MVDegrainMulti()ĭirt_strength=23 #sets amount of dirt removal (big spots) In_bord_left=0 in_bord_top=0 in_bord_right=0 in_bord_bot=0 #Borders around input that must be removed Values can be positive or negativeīlack_level=0 white_level=255 output_black=0 output_white=255 #manual levels, when returning result2 & result4ĬLeft=16 CTop=16 CRight=16 CBottom=16 #crop values after Depan and before final resizingīord_left=0 bord_top=0 bord_right=0 bord_bot=0 #720p= borders 150 Trim_begin=0 play_speed=15 #trim frames and play speed (PAL: 16.6666 or 18.75)īlue= -0 red=-0 #manual color adjustment, when returning result3 & result4. Result="resultS1" #specify the wanted output here So, just get the script working and then start changing these variables. The comments are intended to tell you what they do. My work involves mostly really old film and I find that my version's lower levels of sharpening and grain reduction give results which I find more pleasing when dealing with typical amateur film. I created my own version of his script, which I optimized for speed, but with far less sharpening. You just simply change them and then look at the result. It is actually quite easy to do, but figuring out which parts to use took me quite a bit of time and effort.Īs for your other question, VideoFred put all the control variables for his script at the beginning. You have to use the correct lenses in both the projector and camera dim the bulb and add an additional diffuser in he projector's light path.
Instead, you point the camera directly at the Carousel lens, at point blank range. You cannot simply point the projector at a screen and then snap the result with a digital camera.
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I can provide a few construction details on how to do this conversion in a way that gives you good results. My Carousel/Digital Camera lashup can capture about 15-20 slides per minute. The Nikon Coolscan takes about 1.5-2.0 minutes per scan. The results, when using my old Nikon D-70 as the capture device are probably 85-90% as good as the quality of my Nikon scanner, albeit without any automatic dirt or dust removal, although that only works well on Ektachrome and doesn't really do much with Kodachrome. So, I converted a Carousel projector into a very high-quality, extremely fast scanner. I recently needed to scan 3,000 slides for a client whose dad is dying and wanted to see the slides one last time. It took me 3+ years to get through my dad's 10,000 slides. You can sell it when you are finished in order to recoup the $1,000+ cost. They don't make them anymore, but you can get them on eBay. The best way to scan them is a Nikon Coolscan scanner.
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